It was a scorching and rather dull day at Banzai Pipeline on the North Coast of Oahu, Hawaii, where two of the greatest surfers of all time (and good friends), Rob Machado and Kelly Slater, were battling for the World Championship.
In a defining moment of what might be called anti-competition, Slater raised both his fists when Machado was deep inside a barreling left. Short after, Machado decided to high-five his buddy instead of pulling out and maintaining priority, which seemed like a bizarre decision at the time.
Even a reporter called that move “unthinkable.”
Despite Machado’s show of sportsmanship, he ended up losing that heat.
Slater, winning his third world title.
But Machado’s decision to prioritize his sense of empathy and friendship over fierce competition demonstrated a deep understanding of the value of human connection: the importance of treating others with kindness and generosity.
From a very young age, we’re taught that the whole point of competing is winning, and then we tend to see competition everywhere. But Machado’s choice was a profound expression of freedom, showing that true freedom isn’t just about pursuing our interests but about finding ways to connect and collaborate to create a better world.
That was a moment of sublime beauty.
No one would be talking about the 1995 Pipe Masters today.
Still, it is a moment that will inspire many for the years to come, surfers and non-surfers alike.
Shaun Tomson’s Surfer’s Code has a very similar commandment:
“I will pass on my stoke to others.”
Ironically, Machado’s decision also led him to become the most iconic free surfer on the planet, admired for his surfing, his style, and his deep understanding of the world and his place in it.
He was gracious in his move, improving the surfing community by teaching us that we can always choose freedom.
So, next time you’re trapped at work behaving way more aggressively than you really are, remember Rob’s choice.
Pass your enthusiasm to others.
Free your soul.
Aloha!
