Aloha, my dearest PhiloSurfer!

Are you ready to shake your beliefs with some surfing & philosophy?

Bring it on!

Life shouldn’t be a burden

Life is actually one of the lightest things ever. Like a feather. Like water spray.

“Life’s absurd.” You hear them complaining. “Existence is meaningless.”

As if life cares about it the tiniest bit. Or about them. Or even about us.

Yet living is easy. You know. Summertime.

Don’t need to do anything.

It flows, just like water.

Ebbs & flows.

The rhythm.

The tides.

Changes.

Silence.

Music.

You.

Talking About You

If life’s not weightless, why does it sometimes feel as heavy as a rock?

If the weighing scales tell you that a feather is 1 Ton, the scales are the ones to blame. Trust me.

The same happens with us. Many times we look for external causes of our pains and frustrations. But the direction to look is inwards.

And what are your weighing scales?

Your Ego.

Surf Leashes

In surfing, leashes keep your board attached to your ankle.

They prevent you from having to swim to shore when you fall. They also help improve security.

So your leash:

– Saves you energy.

– Gives you a sense of security.

– Keeps you in a zone of alleged control.

There are many positive sides to the leash.

It’s good to have one.

But your leash can also:

– Trip you & make you look like a kook (on the crowded beach).

– Get stuck with other’s leashes & start a fight.

– Worst case scenario: Hold you down, trapped in the reef, until you drown.

So there are also cons of using a leash at all times.

The good news is:

You can take it out.

There is a device called quick release. It’s costly, and you have to get used to it. But it can save you by releasing your leash in an emergency.

Some advanced surfers don’t use leashes because they no longer need one.

This gives you an enhanced sensation of freedom. Truly free. Nothing is holding you back.

You,

your board

and the ocean.

+ Nothing more

–  Nothing less

Like our PhiloSurfer Club,

You, the surfer & the wave.

Actionable exercise:

Now read this whole section again and change these 2 words:

Leash ↝ Ego

Life’s Waves

However, some surfers can only imagine surfing with a leash/ego.

They are so used to it, that they don’t feel it.

It’s become part of them.

Although it’s not.

They surf all waves with the leash attached. Never fully free.

Wonder why they feel anxiety.

Especially because life’s tides they’re a changing.

Some sections are smooth and glassy.

While others are choppy and close out on you.

You gotta love them both.

If you surf, you eat.

Remember? Life’s lightness.

Just be.

Light.

Gotta love wipeouts, then.

You can’t get a one without the other:

• A good sessions without wipeouts.
• A good life without downs.

So, tell me:

When facing challenging times, what do you do?

Essentially, you have two big alternatives:

A – 𝗜𝗻𝗱𝘂𝗹𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝘀𝗲𝗹𝗳-𝗹𝗼𝗮𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘃𝗶𝗰𝗲𝘀, which is what your unexamined mind may urge you to do. It tells you that you’re a victim, thus justifying any behavior.

B – 𝗙𝗮𝗰𝗲 𝗰𝗵𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲𝗻𝗴𝗲𝘀 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝘁𝗲𝗺𝗽𝗲𝗿 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗽𝗼𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝘃𝗶𝘁𝘆, as recommended by Lao-Tzu, and transform the negative into something positive.

You see what I mean.

Each option has consequences:

A – Hardens your ego. Shortens your leash.

B – Softens your inner core. Lets you surf with nothing attached to you.

Many surfers have shown us the way to B.

Countless examples of great surfers have overcome adversity with grace, making them…

Modern-Day Heroes

The list of surfing heroes is extensive, but here are a few examples that come to my mind:

1. 𝗕𝗲𝘁𝗵𝗮𝗻𝘆 𝗛𝗮𝗺𝗶𝗹𝘁𝗼𝗻: Despite losing her left arm in a shark attack, she maintained her professional surfing career through her strong values and faith.

2. 𝗔𝗶𝘁𝗼𝗿 𝗙𝗿𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲𝘀𝗲𝗻𝗮, ‘𝗚𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗼’: Even though being told it was impossible, this determined surfer who is visually impaired not only won the World Championship but also became a surfing coach.

These 2 stories are just a glimpse of the many remarkable surfers out there.

But, for me, the most inspiring one is that of…

𝗘𝗱𝗱𝗶𝗲 𝗔𝗶𝗸𝗮𝘂 (𝟭𝟵𝟰𝟲-𝟭𝟵𝟳𝟴)

Eddie Aikau saved over 500 lives in Waimea with passion, selflessness, and fearlessness. While others did not venture into treacherous waters, Eddie fearlessly swam where no one else would dare to go.

Yet, his motives extended far beyond personal accomplishments as a surfer or lifeguard. He embodied humility, introspection, and a deep spiritual connection while proudly embracing his native Hawaiian heritage.

In a remarkable display of altruism, Eddie volunteered for a voyage between Hawaii and Tahiti. This voyage aimed to recreate the original journey that brought the first Polynesians to inhabit Hawaii aboard a double-hulled canoe.

The trip proved to be a bad idea from the very start. Not far from the Hawaiian archipelago, excessive water began sinking the large canoe shortly after departure. The situation began to be critical.

Undeterred by the dire situation, Eddie grabbed his board and embarked on a daring paddle toward the island of Lānaʻi to seek help. At the age of 31, he exemplified extraordinary courage and determination.

Although the U.S. Coast Guard ultimately rescued the canoe crew, Eddie’s board and his body were never found. However, his legacy lives on through the three simple words that have come to symbolize surfing altruism:

“𝗘𝗱𝗱𝗶𝗲 𝘄𝗼𝘂𝗹𝗱 𝗴𝗼.”

Eddie showed us the way to selflessness.

Now ask yourself the following questions:

• Do you think he would have been the hero he was with a hardened ego?
• What would have happened to the 500 lives he saved by risking his?
• Does it sound fulfilling to you?

It looks like a pretty damn well-lived life to me!

TL;DR

Life’s a beach. What are you doing with your shoes on?

See you next week.

Malako,